Beau breaks big-wave phobia on his best trip

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Thursday, February 11, 2010
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This is NorthDevon

LINEUP caught up with Beau Bromham this week following his return from the Quiksilver ISA World Junior Surfing Championships in New Zealand.

As part of the North Devon contingent of the GB surf team that claimed 11th last month, Beau was up against the best in the world.

"It was a brilliant experience, the best trip I've ever been on," said the Billabong rider from Croyde.

"To compete at that level and surf with the likes of Gabriel Medina was amazing. I've learnt so much."

With his opening rounds in monstrous 6ft-plus onshore conditions on the exposed second podium wave, it was a baptism of fire.

"We trained really hard when we got there, practising heat drills and working with team coach Micah Lester identifying heat strategies," said Beau.

"The waves were huge and it was scary, there was no hiding and I knew I couldn't surf around the inside.

"The biggest thing was conquering my fear of bigger waves, but with Micah's help I was able to face that and surf the largest waves I've faced so far."

The big waves weren't the only problem for the North Devon grom.

"I was seriously undergunned," he said.

"I was riding my 5ft 8in board as the bigger pin-tail I'd ordered didn't turn up in time.

"It was tough just paddling out and even the commentators mentioned that it looked like I was struggling on that board, but I was stoked with my performance overall.

"I really want to thank all my friends and everyone who gave their support through Facebook and on the webcast while we were out there, that meant a lot, as well as my sponsor Billabong."

This year sees Beau, who placed second on the under-16s tour last year, step it up a level as he progresses to the under-18 pro juniors division.

"It's going to be hard this year," he said. "I'll be up against local boys Lyndon Wake and Alex Baker as well as guys like Lewis Clinton. I'm not expecting to win but I hope I can put in as many solid performances as I can."

As for biggest mistake of his trip?

"I was offered a chance to go to Australia direct from New Zealand for $150 with Micah, and I chose college and cold water," he said.

Talk about a good to time get over the natural fear of big waves — there's been a fair amount of that recently.

The North Devon coast has been awash with swell, with real long-period groundswells delivering sizeable waves packing real power.

The waves peaked on Saturday with 6ft to 8ft sets unloading on most of the main beaches for much of the morning as the sun shone.

Plenty of people headed to spots offering a bit shelter from the full force of the swell, with Putsborough proving a popular retreat.

Hardcore chargers could be found in abundance on the point, where a packed lineup proved a competitive environment and Ashley Braunton was one of the standouts.

Surf photographer Gordon Dryburgh said: "It was like the first day of spring, the waves were pumping and the sun was shining.

"There were very few takers on the main beaches though.

"I've not seen that many spectators watching the surf in quite a while."

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