LYNTON! I had forgotten how sensational the landscape is — those crags and cliffs and gulches. The Valley of the Rocks, all menacing romantic grandeur, looks as though it's a hard, three day ride from civilisation, when in fact it's two minutes from all the cosy comforts of a Victorian seaside resort.

North Walk House benefits from wild, panoramic sea views from high above the ocean while being comfortably tucked into the hillside along a little road full of once gentlemen's residences, now hotels. If you want to get down to sea level, the cliff railway is just along the way.

North Walk's dining room has a large table with 10 places and at the end of it the view. Imagine my surprise, in staid Lynton, to find myself sitting beside a framed photo of Little Richard and opposite one of Miles Davis. Van Morrison's bluesy yelp was coming out of the speakers.

It turns out that jazz and blues are the passion of chef and co-owner Kelvin, whose encyclopaedic knowledge of Soho record shops is unlikely to be rivalled in North Devon.

And the food? Kelvin and Liz Hallum are members of the Slow Food Association, which does not mean you wait ages for your meal (although actually the steak man down the other end of the table did have to wait some time while his companions enjoyed their sea bass). No, it means that they are committed to buying freshly, locally, organically and all those other good words. They will tell you the provenance of everything they serve and were even a little shame-faced that the new season asparagus, served with the main dishes as one of the vegetables, had come from as far away as Herefordshire.

I began with mushroom soup, ordered the day before as was the rest of our meal. It was full of real mushrooms and had quite clearly never been near a packet or a can. My wife enjoyed a salad adorned with apple, pecan and Bishops Lydeard cheese (fresh, local, raw milk). Next, my lamb was tender and toothsome. Its dark, winey sauce equally delicious. Her plaice was plump and moist with a tasty breadcrumb topping — admirably judged.

There was only one pudding but it — rhubarb and strawberry crumble — could not be faulted. I had the cheese board (fresh and local) which was a generous selection of perfect ripeness.

Soon they are going to extend the dining room and have a little live jazz and blues. Now that will be nice.

Where: North Walk House, North Walk, Lynton, Exmoor, North Devon. EX35 6HJ.

Bookings: 01598 753372.

Cost: The bill for two with a bottle of house red came to £66.35.