A VISITING American friend once said that one of the distinguishing things about North Devon folk was their liberal use of the word "proper" in contrast to other parts of the UK where they tend to prefer "real", "traditional" or "genuine". I wondered how true that was.

On entering The Cyder Presse at Weare Giffard on a Friday night I found myself thinking: "It's lovely to be in a proper village pub with a landlord wearing a proper shirt and tie." A few moments later I was musing: "It's nice to see a proper red pub carpet with tankards hanging from beams."

I was amused to discover that, on this occasion, this country bar and restaurant was hosting the world's most cheeky visiting darts team. My, my such leg-pulling! Had there been prizes for "most extrovert character", "top tease" or "best bit of banter", this would have been a very closely fought contest indeed. It was fun watching this pack of keen players giving their mates a good ribbing while having such a great night out.

The restaurant part of the pub, though, had its own separate set of alcoves with comfortable velvet-covered pew-style seating next to a log burner. Very cosy! The menu was dizzying in its scope ranging from everything from the humble ham, egg and chips to the more sumptuous sounding pheasant or duck breast.

Obviously the landlords in this establishment are caring folk who are out to ensure their customers are suitably well-nourished in the winter months. Our starter of deep fried goats' cheese consisted of two massive "cakes" – enough protein for a family of four I'd warrant – spiced up with a pepper jam.

This was followed by equally enormous salmon, cod and prawn fishcakes and homely, squishy veg. The pleasant pheasant breast was a massive comforting portion of meat, too.

An interesting variety of puddings threatened to weigh down the stomachs even more. These ranged from Christmas pudding (in case you needed some extra seasonal stodge) to much lighter and interestingly-flavoured ice creams and sorbets.

Putting aside subtle, my filling almond and peach tart was for those craving a frangipane feast. While the cider sorbet was happily appily with real chunks of fruit.

We are very lucky in this part of the world to still have proper village pubs serving warming, comforting food to combat the winter chill.

Where: Cyder Presse, Weare Giffard, near Bideford, EX39 4QR.

Bookings: 01237 425517.

Website: www. cyderpresse.co.uk

Cost: The above three-course meal for two with drinks came to £50.05.