THEY say we form a lasting impression of someone after being in their company merely for seconds. I wonder if the same could be said for pubs.

The thatched arch of the Hoops Inn certainly makes a dramatic impact as it curves around the big dip in the A39, just before the turning for Clovelly.

The inn looks stunning and on a frosty winter morning one begins to romanticise about comfy chairs by log fires, low beamed roofs and slate floors, plus oodles of piping hot food.

These first impressions are not perforated once inside. All the above is on offer and from the outset the staff strike me as friendly folk with a sense of fun. (In a day and age when customer service is often equated with a series of scripted questions, genuine friendliness is appreciated).

Families waiting for food in the bar area look perfectly 'at home' as they play cards or dress up Barbie in much-needed winter woollies.

My chair in the dining room is right next to a glorious log fire and with a glass of wine to sip, I soon feel incredibly unruffled.

Today's Sunday lunch menu provides a choice of roast beef, turkey or pork. For fish fans there's moules mariniere and beer battered fillet of cod. For veggies there's a creamy dish based on macaroni cheese.

There was a time when all pubs felt duty bound to include a classic prawn cocktail on the starter menu. What fun to try this again. It's as yummy as the good ones always were. Jon has Anti Pasta – cured meats and cornichons – which gets the thumbs up too.

Roast beef (Jon declares the meat 'superb'), is accompanied with veg cooked to perfection (lots of warming mashed swede and delicious crispy cabbage), tasty roasties (cooked with herbs, vegetable oil and garlic) and top-notch homemade Yorkshire puddings. It's incredibly filling. Yet, despite the fact that we are visibly growing outwards, we don't resist the offer of a few more scrumptious roasties. Our waitress, who obviously has a devilish sense of humour or simply can't abide waste, returns with a great big dish of them and tells us we can't leave the table until they're finished.

We fail the challenge. Not due to desire, I have to confess, but practicalities. After all we have to squeeze in pudding. Jon opts for baked ginger parkin. The steaming hot cake is fantastically warming with a deliciously spicy syrup. I know because my spoon 'accidently' finds its way through it after scooping a dollop of cream. Bliss!

Meanwhile my Eton Mess, not normally a pudding associated with wintery days, is a delightfully fresh and light way to end the meal.

It's good to know that sometimes first impressions hold good. This attractive pub scored on great food, hot log fires in a rustic country bar and friendly attentive staff.

Where: Horns Cross, near Clovelly, EX39 5DL

Parking: There is plenty of parking in the car park at the rear of the pub.

Contact: 01237 451222, sales@hoopsinn.co.uk

Website: www.hoopsinn.co.uk

Cost: The Sunday lunch menu is £8.50 for a main course, £13.95 for two courses or £18.95 for three courses.