CATHERINE Omell is an accidental farmer. And the Lincoln Longwools don't mean to get on her nerves, they just do.

It was Catherine's parents who bought West Kidland Farm, high on the outskirts of Exmoor, six years ago. It wasn't bought as a farm, just as the best apparent solution to the housing needs of their extraordinary menagerie.

Animals are Reg and Copper Howes' passion. They breed German Shepherd dogs and keep a variety of other animals. By 2004 their expanding zoo had outgrown their house and small amount of land in Berkshire, and they moved the animals, species by species, in the horsebox to North Devon.

At the time Catherine and her husband, Nils, were living well, both with successful businesses and a lifestyle to match. The Omells' and Howes' zoo somehow became a mixed livestock farm, and Catherine and Nils just, sort of, moved in to help.

So what on earth possessed them? Certainly on Catherine's part there is a huge devotion to the animals. When asked about the rewards that might compensate for such an extreme shift in lifestyle Catherine said: "Watching the animals grow up." Adding: "And then eating them."

On my visit to West Kidland I ask Catherine if she and Nils have any children. No, she says, they have dogs. "The only people we have to answer to are the animals."

Well there are animals aplenty spread across 50 acres just off the Link Road demanding of attention. Berkshire pigs, Dexter cattle, Indian Runner ducks, Golden Guernsey goats, and those blessed Lincoln Longwools. Now what is it about these sheep that drive Catherine to distraction? She reels off a list. They can't be herded, they're awful mothers, and to cap it all they are "ridiculously unintelligent".

Chickens and other poultry seems to be the principal passion. I meet the wonderfully exotic Copper Black Marans and Cream Leg Bars. They produce eggs that are, respectively, a pickled walnut brown and (perversely) duck egg blue. The multi-coloured selection boxes fly off their stall at farmers' markets. Some people buy them just to blow them.

Now you might think a choice from 500 odd different breeds of chicken would prove sufficient for anyone. But not Catherine, and this is where her Animal Science degree is allowed its head. She produces her own hybrids "just for fun" and to "see what comes out of the egg".

West Kidland is stuffed with animal characters.

"We do what we're not supposed to do and name them all," said Catherine.

Some, like Sixpence the sheep, are very much part of the accidental family, having been with them for 16 years. Sixpence is the official babysitter. Once lambs have been weaned they are put in with Sixpence. When needed, Sixpence follows the Omells, and the lambs follow Sixpence. It goes some way to dealing with that unherdable problem, without having to use a dog.

Now, I don't want to give the impression that the Omells are not serious farmers. They work 15-hour days, fret about the cost of animal feed, and produce wonderful meat, the old-fashioned way. They breed their own animals, rear them, take them to the abattoir, collect them, hang them, and then butcher and pack them on farm.

From birth to the point the meat is ready to eat, they have been with their animals every step of the way. The Omells believe that this adds to the taste of the meat, as their animals are very contented throughout their lives and suffer minimal amounts of stress. Hence their strap line: Contentment Is Flavour.

Another motto might be: "It's ready when it's ready". Natural processes are not rushed, and they never buy in animals to rear for meat as this goes against the grain of their philosophy. Sometimes this means a wait for their customers.

"Happily most people are willing to wait until there is more available," said Catherine.

As well as meat, they also sell livestock when it is available; such as Dexter heifers, Berkshire weaners, Lincoln Lambs, pure-bred and hybrid chicks and chickens, ducklings and goslings.

West Kidland Farm is a recent and very welcome addition to Hartland Farmers' Market, where they are proving a big hit. You can even sample the Omells' exotic eggs as part of the market café's full English. The next market is on Sunday, June 6, 10am – 1pm at Hartland Parish Hall. You can call me for more information on 01237 441786.

You can get further information about West Kidland's livestock and produce by visiting their website at www.west kidland.co.uk or by calling 07790 525984.