BLAGDON Manor was the venue for the latest lunch of Dan Garnett's privileged group of fish-lovers (Dan's the much-cherished fishmonger at Hatherleigh, Holsworthy, South Molton and Bideford markets).

Blagdon Manor always makes me sorry that I'm not looking for a country hotel to cosset me for a day or two. Even the grass looks well fed and polished as it recedes into the hilly distance. The dogs say good morning politely and Ruth and Liz look after you with a charm that never fails even when the fish lovers get a bit silly.

We took our aperitifs in the cosy bar or the comfy library and just lying around in wait for us were some little explosions of taste; some super-intensified tomato wrapped up in a shaving of courgette for example. I know Steve Morey's way with a tomato of old (he's the chef/boss along with his wife Liz). I remember a sensational tomato risotto that appeared between dinner courses one time.

And then we took our places in the dining room or the conservatory — the latter the favoured location on a day when looking out across the landscape was a pleasure — to begin thinking seriously about fish.

Our first course was called Tasting of West Country Seafood and I shall list what that consisted of. No, I won't; it would go on for ever. There was smoked salmon and sole and crab and shrimps…

Here are two of my favourite concoctions among the wonders: first potted shrimps, mace butter and melba toast; second tempura of plaice with mushy peas. The first was more shrimpy and buttery than the potted shrimps they serve in heaven. The second was light as a gull's feather with the addition of that cheeky, vulgar mushy pea taste.

All these delights were in tiny little portions; so that, if you happened to be making a grave statement about the decline in the quality of chancellors of the exchequer in recent years and happened to put one of the fishy delights into your mouth in mid sentence, just as a sort of punctuation to the profound remark you were making, you would miss it entirely. Gone, that exquisite little blast of taste! So, I prefer more but fewer. However I have canvassed the opinion of other fish lovers and not all agree. Perhaps it is that I talk too much.

To follow was sea bass with ratatouille and aubergine puree — bass lovely, purée exquisitely delicate, ratatouille deconstructed and scattered in minute bits around the plate.

A tasting of pears was like the fish tasting. I have to admit to scoffing a few little peary dishes while discoursing on the state of the world; however the pear crumble-ette and the pear donut-ette came between pronouncements and were certifiably delicious.

The West Country cheeses were supplied by Derek and Judith Stratton from the Holsworthy cheese shop where I buy my cheese every week so I already knew how marvellous our cheeses are these days when presented in tip top condition.

Of course the fish lovers' lunch was special, but food at Blagdon is special. You should go. You'll pay £35 for a three course dinner. But if you want astounding value, you can get a three course lunch on Friday or Saturday for a staggering £20. Go for it.

● Where: Blagdon Manor Hotel and Restaurant, Ashwater, Devon EX21 5DF.

Bookings: 01409 211224.