YOU feel like you are peering out to sea from inside a ship's galley or maybe eating your nosh from a posh beach hut — The Tides Inn in Woolacombe reinforces the sensation of being at the seaside.

Nice little touches add up to a carefree, holiday vibe: think canoe paddles on the walls or a photo of a surfer silhouetted against the sand, while your cutlery arrives in a jolly painted bucket (right).

Seaside charm can often be a euphemism for 'tacky tourist trap' but that's not the case here: wooden tables and floorboards, duck egg blue panelling on the walls, a modern funky fireplace at the centre, give it a clean, fresh, modern and spacious feel.

Despite the spanking new interior, worthy of any formal restaurant, the watering hole which was once called the Golden Hind, still retains a pub ethos. Food is ordered at the bar while waiter service strikes me as low key. Such informality is ideal if, say, you wanted to take the kids out for lunch or warm up with a steaming hot cuppa after enjoying a January breezer along the beach.

On a Sunday, a choice of several roast meats come served with exceptionally crispy potatoes, nicely cooked veg and a tasty gravy. A generous platter of roast beef was devoured by my dining partner while I opted for a nut roast. The latter didn't have the nutty, breadcrumb consistency I would usually associate with a nut roast, yet it was a nice and warming dish all the same. More like a moist veggie bake: plenty of finely grated veg and apricots topped with goats cheese.

Had we not been in the mood for a roast, other specials included Meat The Sea (a rump steak topped with king prawns) and lemon sole fillets. There were also starters which included prawn and melon dishes. Casual diners could choose from a bar menu of lighter lunchtime snacks like baked potatoes.

Now if my scrummy lemon mallow pie was anything to go by, complete with its generous dollop of clotted cream, puddings at the premises could turn into the sweetest of vices. On this occasion temptations included chocolate fudge gateau, sherry trifle and Eton mess.

All in all, this attractive eatery could be pretty much whatever you needed it to be: a meeting place for locals to drink, a snack bar if you are enjoying the great outdoors or an informal restaurant with decent grub.

My biggest tip when visiting The Tides Inn would be, if possible, book one of the window seats that overlook the sea or, in the summer months, take advantage of the outdoor seating.

Where: The Tides Inn, Beach Road, Woolacombe, Devon, EX34 7BP.

Bookings: 01271 871420.

Opening hours:

Cost: Nut roast: £8.50, Roast beef: £8.50, lemon mallow pie: £4.50.